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Chicago – Meditations on the Cold

Yesterday, we shopped the Miracle Mile and walked to Lou Malnati’s in bright, sunny fifteen degree weather. Fifteen degrees. At fifteen degrees, the icy wind coming off the frozen river makes your eyes...

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My AmTrak Valentine

Our trip on the Empire Builder from Chicago to Seattle marks our first multi-day trip on an AmTrak train. Back in college, I flirted briefly with AmTrak, riding a six-hour route from Hattiesburg, MS,...

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A Tale of Two Pizzas (Chicago, IL and Shelby, MT)

A big part of this weekend’s Valentine’s Day plan: one night in Chicago, with dinner at Lou Malnati’s. Ask virtually any native of Chicago where to find the best pizzas, and he or she will usually say,...

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The Essentials: Chicago to Seattle on Amtrak’s Empire Builder

Tickets. Ticket prices vary wildly. We snagged first class sleeper car tickets — which include all meals — for $500 each. Had we left one day earlier, the same tickets would have cost us $1000 each. If...

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Xochimilco (Mexico City)

Take a party. Add traditional snacks and sweets. Buy plenty of alcohol. Invite mariachis and bands playing traditional music. And put it all on colorful barges in the middle of a network of...

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Touring with Journeys Beyond the Surface (Mexico City, Mexico)

While I consider myself an independent traveler, I am absolutely, completely sold on the value of local guides. Can I use TripAdvisor and Google to pull together a plan for the day? Of course I can....

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Eat Mexico Late Night Taco Tour (Mexico City)

In Mexico — especially after nightfall — taco stands spring up like mushrooms. As you walk by each one, the air grows thick with the aroma of grilled meat, cilantro, and chili. Each little cart and...

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King’s Landing (Dubrovnik, Croatia)

We’re in Dubrovnik, Croatia. I’ve never been here, but the panoramic view of the Old City is immediately familiar to me: If you watch Game of Thrones, you’ll recognize Dubrovnik (enhanced with a...

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Getting Lost (on Purpose) in Corfu, Greece

We’re in Corfu, Greece, wandering the winding streets without the burden of having a particular destination. Corfu’s Old City is a good place for aimless exploration. The labyrinthine layout defies...

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Birthplace of the Olympics (Olympia, Greece)

We’re on our way to visit the ruins of Olympia, where the Olympic Games began. Many visitors arriving on cruise ships never venture further than the port city of Katakolon, satisfied with browsing its...

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Sleeping Giants (Pompeii, Italy)

Imagine you’re in your house, loading lunch dishes in the dishwasher. On the t.v.: a political ad. On the countertop, your to-do list for the afternoon: eggs from the grocery, light bulbs from Home...

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I’m a Whale Watcher (Juneau, AK)

I’m in our bedroom, packing for a trip to Alaska. In my pocket is an iPhone that takes stunning photos — within its own well-defined limitations. On the bed is a Panasonic Lumix with a wide-angle lens...

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A Tale of Two Zoos (Sitka, Alaska)

Over on TripAdvisor.com, tourists rave about the Fortress of the Bear, gushing over “seeing bears up close” and celebrating the organization’s stated purpose of saving orphaned animals. (They’ve...

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Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show (Ketchikan, AK)

Right up front: from the painfully scripted banter to the dutiful progression of the feats of strength, the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show is one huge slab of cheese. And when I say cheese, I’m not...

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Rojo Bistro (Mexico City)

Especially if you’re staying at the Red Tree House in Mexico City’s Condesa District (and you should), the Rojo Bistro is a lively, convenient spot for snagging a relaxing dinner or sensibly-priced...

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Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show (Ketchikan, AK)

Right up front: from the painfully scripted banter to the dutiful progression of the feats of strength, the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show is one huge slab of cheese. And when I say cheese, I’m not...

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